Samoyeds are special and special knowledge is required
Lets get started with some great information about The Samoyed
The SAMOYED is one of the oldest pure breeds known to man, being descended, without mixture, from the dog that accompanied the "Samoyede" tribesmen during their migrations in far northern Europe.
Ahead of you are many years, (10-13) of love, fun, affection & loyalty from what we consider the most beautiful dog in the world. The Samoyed has a real need for human association & affection, having lived so closely with nomadic peoples over many centuries.
01. what was the samoyed bred to do?
The Samoyed herded the Samoyede tribe's reindeer, pulled their sleds, guarded their camps from wolves and bears and the pups were even used to keep their children warm in their reindeer skin tents.
He is a true companion, the Samoyed is always willing to please and never shows any aggression to
humans. He is patient beyond belief, especially with children, and is only truly happy when with you as part of the family.
As a guard dog he will most definitely bark!.
Everything you put into a Samoyed he will repay one hundred fold.
GENERAL APPEARANCE. Most striking. Medium and well balanced. Strong, active and graceful. Free from
coarseness but capable of great endurance, with a heavy weather resisting coat.
CHARACTERISTICS. Intelligent, alert, full of action. "Smiling expression."
TEMPERAMENT. Displays affection to all mankind.
HEAD & SKULL. Head powerful, wedge-shaped, with broad flat skull. Muzzle medium length. Tapering foreface not too sharply defined. Lips black. Hair short and smooth before ears. Nose black for preference but may be brown or flesh-coloured.EYES. Almond shaped, set slanted, medium to dark brown, set well apart with alert intelligent expression. Eye rims unbroken black.
EARS. Thick, not too long, slightly rounded at tips set well apart and well covered inside with hair. Fully erect in adults.
MOUTH. Jaws strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws.
NECK. Strong, not too short and proudly arched.
FOREQUARTERS. Shoulders well laid, legs straight and muscular with good bone and not too short.
BODY. Back medium in length, broad and very muscular with exceptionally strong loin. Chest deep but not too broad, well sprung deep ribs, giving plenty of heart and lung room.
HINDQUARTERS. Very muscular, stifles well angulated, viewed from the rear, legs straight and parallel with well let down hocks.
FEET. Long, flattish, slightly spread and well feathered. Soles well cushioned with hair.
TAIL. Long, profusely covered, carried over the back and to the side when alert, sometimes dropped when at
rest.
GAIT/MOVEMENT. Moves freely with strong, agile drive, showing power and elegance.
COAT. Body should be well covered with thick, close, soft and short undercoat, with harsh but not wiry hair growing through it forming a weather resisting out coat which should stand straight away from the body and free from curl.
COLOUR. Pure white, white and biscuit, cream, outer coat silver tipped.
SIZE. Dogs 51-56cms (20-22 inches) at withers. Bitches 46-51ems (18-20 inches) at withers. Weight in
proportion to size.
03. about double coated dogs and why you shouldn't shave them!
By Megan Cradock
Firstly I am going to say that whether you choose to shave your dog or not is up to you and hopefully this information will help you make an educated decision. PLEASE consult your breeder where possible before making such a decision.
The first thing to remember is that unlike humans, dogs do not cool themselves through the skin; they only sweat through their footpads. Their main mode of cooling is through panting. Double-coated dogs such as Samoyeds have an undercoat, which is thick and fluffy.
This coat is short but grows quickly and will shed several times a year. It is mostly this coat, which you will find all over your house and clothes. The outer coat or guard coat is longer and grows much slower than the undercoat. It is coarser and protects the dog from the elements. The undercoat provides insulation in the winter and cools the dog in the summer.
If your dog has a well groomed coat, with no dead undercoat, the coat keeps the dog warm in the winter by providing insulation and keeping the dog’s skin dry. In the summer, it provides a sort of air conditioning system to the dog, keeping him cool. He’s not going to be hot with that entire coat; it’s actually keeping him cool and protected. As long as he isn’t shaved or severely matted, his coat will do it’s job and keep his temperature regulated.
Shaving it permanently damages the condition of the coat. The under coat, as I said before, is short and dense, while the outer coat is longer, glossy, and harder hair. The undercoat is all that is left when you shave a dog, and as it grows faster than the outer coat, it takes a very long time for the outer coat to catch up, if at all. This means that there is no outer coat to protect the under coat, which becomes brittle and breaks off, and that there is no shiny, glossy hair on your dog.
On some dogs, the under coat never grows back properly, leaving the dog’s coat sparse and just plain ugly. It also damages the cycle of the hair, making the shedding times unpredictable and in some cases, never end. It can also mean that you’re stuck shaving the dog for the rest of his life.
Dogs with double coats have sensitive skin. This means that your shaved dog is likely to come home with razor burn, irritated skin, and is much more likely to be sunburned. The skin of these dogs is more sensitive; because the thick hair protects it from the sun, bug bites, and anything else that your dog encounters during a hike, a romp in the backyard, or a roll on the carpet.
These dogs can end up with hot spots, lick excessively, and are generally miserable. No one wants that for his or her dog.
Once again I urge any members thinking of shaving their dogs to do immense research on the subject, to consult your breeder and to consult a vet who is deeply familiar with your breed.
